The simplest thing about Christian Dior New Look, Francis Kurkdjian’s latest addition to the brand’s Collection Privee, is describing how it smells. Starting with an iceberg-sized wallop of aldehyde (C12 MNA to be precise, the one that smells steamy, waxy, metallic, snuffed-candle-y and quietly pine-citrusy) it then makes way for a chilly frankincense note (conjuring a church that might have been frequented by the Snow Queen) before settling on an equally cool, haughty, pristine-white amber (without ever losing the silvery edge of the aldehyde).
Magnificent read, as always. Your sensible and empathetic and always respectful, yet decisive and conclusive writing is remarkable, to say the least. I’ve read this article three times, and all times I’ve smiled, if not tickled by the many implicit thoughts and feelings your words are able to conjure.
Thank you for putting into proper respectful writing what I’ve been trying to express in not-so-eloquent fashion. There is one thing that I will possibly disagree on (if disagreement is even the right choice of word for this statement): while Francis K. shouldn’t be bound to the past, there is a heritage that should be honored. After all, it is the house of Dior. Whatever “new look” he’s wanting to inspire and bring forth to the table should at the very minimum represent the table he’s sitting at. For example, we need not even mention how Thierry Wasser has respectfully represented and dignified Guerlain while he was still head perfumer for the house.
I absolutely loved the phrase of “identity crisis as he’s flexing his perfumer muscles”... while it made me laugh, it also taught me a measure of forgiveness and empathy as I understand the level of pressure and stress he’s going through and learning the ways of Dior. Perhaps he should connect with more sound-minded and experienced perfumers (as perhaps the honorable Thierry Wasser) as he also learns the ropes of representing a house that is not his, and even more so as renowned a house as Dior’s.
Thank you for bringing so much joy to my day today. Enjoy reading your thoughts and well-versed opinions. Here’s to hoping an edgier and more impactful fragrant future at Dior.
Scented (not in “New Look”, but rather in the former 1947 Look) regards,
I greatly enjoyed this long form review. With the tv series about Christian Dior entitled The New Look set to debut in February (in the US on Apple TV), it would seem Dior, and this fragrance, is well positioned to garner additional interest. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that Kurkdjian is able to breathe new life into their Private Collection perfume line which, overall, I want to love more than I actually do. I feel the line has yet to reach its full potential in creating thought-provoking classics. But I’m very intrigued by this one and will seek it out. Thanks again!
Nice review, as always. I liked this stuff enough to buy a bottle. It completely satisfied my thirst for something cold, fresh and alive, without being a clichéd spring/summer citric/calone monster.
Sad to hear it didn’t work on your skin, as on me it performs to near perfection. Always present, but even those chalky serrated aldehydes never get too much. I think that soft amber undercurrent helps with that regard.
This was a treat to read. I sampled this when it was released as I have a soft spot for CD private collection, it wasn't for me. I don't usually gravitate towards any aldehyde perfumes, but I'm beginning to appreciate some of them with time. I enjoy diorrivira because fig is one of those notes that transports me to a different time and place. It is lovely but not a masterpiece. I liked it enough to purchase it however.
So far, especially after the latest Miss Dior, I feel everything FK has done for them is rather dwarfed by his own brand. It makes me question who is calling the shots at Dior? And if The Nose is truly satisfied with what is being churned out!
Excellent review. I tested it couple of days ago and found myself drawn into it. Perhaps I'm seeking the scent profile for sometimes. I don't really mind Dior exploring a new pathway either although as you said, it was quite a departure from the line.
Magnificent read, as always. Your sensible and empathetic and always respectful, yet decisive and conclusive writing is remarkable, to say the least. I’ve read this article three times, and all times I’ve smiled, if not tickled by the many implicit thoughts and feelings your words are able to conjure.
Thank you for putting into proper respectful writing what I’ve been trying to express in not-so-eloquent fashion. There is one thing that I will possibly disagree on (if disagreement is even the right choice of word for this statement): while Francis K. shouldn’t be bound to the past, there is a heritage that should be honored. After all, it is the house of Dior. Whatever “new look” he’s wanting to inspire and bring forth to the table should at the very minimum represent the table he’s sitting at. For example, we need not even mention how Thierry Wasser has respectfully represented and dignified Guerlain while he was still head perfumer for the house.
I absolutely loved the phrase of “identity crisis as he’s flexing his perfumer muscles”... while it made me laugh, it also taught me a measure of forgiveness and empathy as I understand the level of pressure and stress he’s going through and learning the ways of Dior. Perhaps he should connect with more sound-minded and experienced perfumers (as perhaps the honorable Thierry Wasser) as he also learns the ropes of representing a house that is not his, and even more so as renowned a house as Dior’s.
Thank you for bringing so much joy to my day today. Enjoy reading your thoughts and well-versed opinions. Here’s to hoping an edgier and more impactful fragrant future at Dior.
Scented (not in “New Look”, but rather in the former 1947 Look) regards,
- David
David, thank you, but your words are respectful and sensitive too! And I always enjoy reading them.
I like the image of FK and TW sitting together - maybe with a post-lab-day glass of wine? - and talking about ways to change our scented universe.
I greatly enjoyed this long form review. With the tv series about Christian Dior entitled The New Look set to debut in February (in the US on Apple TV), it would seem Dior, and this fragrance, is well positioned to garner additional interest. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that Kurkdjian is able to breathe new life into their Private Collection perfume line which, overall, I want to love more than I actually do. I feel the line has yet to reach its full potential in creating thought-provoking classics. But I’m very intrigued by this one and will seek it out. Thanks again!
Thank you so much, Sharon. I don't watch a huge amount of TV, but I'm very intrigued by that series. I think it starts here in Feb as well.
Nice review, as always. I liked this stuff enough to buy a bottle. It completely satisfied my thirst for something cold, fresh and alive, without being a clichéd spring/summer citric/calone monster.
Sad to hear it didn’t work on your skin, as on me it performs to near perfection. Always present, but even those chalky serrated aldehydes never get too much. I think that soft amber undercurrent helps with that regard.
I have to say, I'm really glad to read this -- I hoped there'd be people out there who'd 'click' well with the scent.
This was a treat to read. I sampled this when it was released as I have a soft spot for CD private collection, it wasn't for me. I don't usually gravitate towards any aldehyde perfumes, but I'm beginning to appreciate some of them with time. I enjoy diorrivira because fig is one of those notes that transports me to a different time and place. It is lovely but not a masterpiece. I liked it enough to purchase it however.
So far, especially after the latest Miss Dior, I feel everything FK has done for them is rather dwarfed by his own brand. It makes me question who is calling the shots at Dior? And if The Nose is truly satisfied with what is being churned out!
Thanks for this.
'Who is calling the shots' is always a good question. I'd imagine that at a brand as large as Dior, there are many people to please.
Excellent analysis! 🙌👏😀 I’m so happy I’ve read this! Thank you!
I'm so glad you enjoyed it, Rachel.
Excellent review. I tested it couple of days ago and found myself drawn into it. Perhaps I'm seeking the scent profile for sometimes. I don't really mind Dior exploring a new pathway either although as you said, it was quite a departure from the line.
Thanks, Maria. Yes, I don't mind 'departures' at all. I just this one had a bit more jet fuel.
Excellent write up
Thanks very much.